2022 - Chemin - J Pearcy
Chemin de la Liberté 7-10 July 2022
Chemin de la Liberté is an Escape Line route categorised as a challenging hike. It comprises a 4-day hike crossing the High Pyrenees starting at St Girons, in the foothills of the French Pyrenees, and finishing at Esterri d’Aneu, in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. It retraces the route which thousands of Spanish refugees took when they headed north to escape the Spanish Civil War and which, later, hundreds of Allied Servicemen and other refugees took, heading south to escape Nazi occupied Europe.
Those of you who read ELMS Newsletter #57 may recall the story of Maurice Collins DFC DFM, a twenty-year-old sergeant pilot, who after being shot down on the night of 21 September 1942 successfully completed the crossing alone in the winter of 1942, after trudging through deep snow and fighting gale-force winds. Unluckily, just as he crossed the border into Spain, he was captured by Spanish border guards and imprisoned until his release was arranged by the British Air Attaché at the end of March 1943 and he was repatriated home via Gibraltar. This year those of us who participated in the 29th Chemin were luckier. We took part in the crossing in July in favourable weather conditions, were equipped with hi-tech gear and had been able to train for the event in the months leading up to it. What’s more, we did not run the risk of being arrested or shot at by border guards or police, German ski troops or spotter planes.
‘Chemin 2022’ received the go-ahead at the beginning of March 2022, after a 3 year break due to the pandemic. In total some 20 ‘internationals’ signed up to take part, more than half of whom had attempted it before. Thus, there were old hands taking part who knew what to expect, and new hands who didn’t. Sadly, our English guide, Paul Williams, was unable to take part in the event having contracted coronavirus on the Sunday before the start of the event and, by having to self-isolate at home, missed the whole event. We commiserated his misfortune, but look forward to him leading us next year.
Our base location for the event was Parc de Palétes, a hostel on the outskirts of St Girons which has acted as base for many years. Participants making up the international contingent started arriving in the days leading up to the event, allowing them to make last minute preparations, purchase provisions such as food and camping gas cylinders, and reacquaint friendships with previous participants and get to know new participants. On Wednesday afternoon, the day before the start of the 4-day hike, a coach took the hikers to attend a memorial service at Kercabanac which was attended by local dignitaries and where flags were paraded and wreaths were laid. The service was followed by a visit to the Chemin de la Liberté Museum in St Girons where there was a formal reception, including drinks and snacks, and where hikers were able to view the interesting museum exhibits commemorating the history of Chemin de la Liberté.
This year, Chemin de la Liberté’s 4 day crossing of the Pyrenees started on Thursday 7 July 2022. An early start at 5am was required so that breakfast could be taken, backpacks could be given a final check and hostel rooms vacated. By 7am all participants in the event had assembled at the start point on the Chemin de la Liberté Bridge in St Girons. This is where escapers, evaders and refugees on the train transporting them through St Girons were given the signal by the train driver, two short blasts on the engine whistle, to jump off the train and join up with local partisans who would lead them on the crossing over the Pyrenees and into Spain. After a brief ceremony and a short speech outlining the itinerary for the day and health and safety advice, the hikers set off.
Day 1 started at a height of 1,300ft and comprised a walking distance of 14 miles (23km). There was a midday stop on arrival at the Col de l’Artigue in Sentenac d’Oust and a short ceremony was held at the memorial in honour of the passeur, Louis Barrau (see article in Newsletter #58). After the ceremony, a buffet lunch was provided. Day 1 ended at the memorial to the French evaders in the hamlet of Aunac at 2,460ft. Total height gain for the day was 3,900ft. From Aunac, transport took participants to the nearby village of Seix where overnight accommodation was provided in the local gymnasium. In the evening a reception with speeches was held at the mayor’s office, followed by a most enjoyable dinner at the local rugby club.
Day 2 started at 1,700ft and comprised a walking distance of 10 miles (16km). There was a midday stop on arrival at Col de la Core and a short ceremony was held at the memorial to the passeurs. After the ceremony a buffet lunch was provided. This was the last road crossing and the last easy opportunity for hikers to end their 4-day hike should they so wish. Day 2 ended at the cabane de la Subéra at 4,900ft. Total height gain for the day was 3,700 ft. The cabane de la Subéra is a wild camp site in front of a shepherd’s hut. Here hikers had to pitch their tents, cook their evening meal and fall asleep to the sound of clanging cow bells after a singalong with the French contingent while the guides provided drinks and food cooked over an open fire.
Days 1 and 2 are designed to test all hikers so that the guides can identify those who they consider unlikely to complete the more demanding days 3 and 4.
Day 3 comprised a walking distance of 8 miles (13km) and although one of the shortest days in distance, was probably the toughest, but also the most exhilarating among spectacular Pyrenean scenery. There was a mid-morning stop at the crash site of a Halifax bomber at 6,900 ft and a short ceremony was held there. From there, there was a steep ascent to the Col des Crabérous at 7,800ft, followed by a steep descent to the Cabane d’Espugues at 6,900ft, where hikers ate their own lunch. After lunch, there was another steep descent to the Etang de Milouga at 6,400ft, followed by a steep ascent to the Col de Pécouch at 8,100ft. Day 3 ended at the Refuge des Estagnous at 7,400ft. Total height gain for the day was 4,600 ft. Mercifully, the refuge provided a wholesome evening meal and dormitory style accommodation, but spaces were limited and some hikers pitched their tents after having found flat ground nearby and slept there overnight.
Day 4 comprised a walking distance of 8 miles (13km) and started with a descent to Etang Rond at 6,000 ft, followed by a steep ascent using fixed steel cables for support, to Etang Long at 7,000ft. From there, there was a final ascent through a snowfield to la Pale de la Claouère at 8,300ft where a short ceremony was held to remember the passeurs and escapers/evaders who made the crossing. The mountain ridge at la Pale de la Claouère marks the border between France and Spain and from there, there followed a long descent to Etang de la Claouère at 7,300ft where lunch was taken. After lunch, the long descent continued to the finish point of the 4-day hike in the valley of the Noguéra Pallaresa at 4,800ft. Total height gain for the day was 2,000 ft. All hikers in the international contingent who started the 4-day event made it over the finishing line, and special congratulations were given to Boris Spence, ELMS Trustee, on completing his 20th Chemin. Lasting friendships were made and there was excellent camaraderie among all hikers during the event. Transportation duly arrived and took the hikers to Esterri d’Aneu where cold showers were available to those hardy or desperate enough to partake, and a celebratory drink at the local bar in Esterri was enjoyed by all. From the bar, hikers and supporters walked down the High Street to a restaurant where speeches were made and thanks given to the guides and organisers and supporters, followed by an excellent evening meal. After dinner, the hikers returned to St Girons by coach arriving at Parc de Palétes around 1am.
Some hikers in the international contingent started making their way home on Monday, others deferred their departure until the Tuesday so that they could enjoy a leisurely day around the hostel or visit a nearby town.
Overall, Chemin de la Liberté is a challenging, but ultimately rewarding experience which is well worth participating in for the adventure and lasting friendships made.